Friday, July 29, 2011

Photos...

Hey folks,

I'm still trying to figure the photo thing out. Turns out flickr has a limit to the number of photos publicly displayed for free (of course...). That limit is 200. I've already surpassed 200, which means all the older photos can't be seen by anyone.

So, I'm turning to you, my loyal readers, to see what suggestions you may have for displaying photography on the web. I'm avoiding facebook, any other suggestions?

Siem Reap and Angkor Wat, Cambodia

Ever am I astounded at humanity’s power to create, at nature’s power to destroy. The temples at Angkor Wat in Cambodia are proof a thousand times over. Sprouting from the jungle, these ancient Buddhist and Hindu temples are a sight to behold made all the more impressive by the great trees sprouting from their walls and towers.

I arrived four days past at Siem Riep Intl airport, fresh from the city. In short order I found my hostel, Popular Guest House, and soon settled in. The streets are filled with touters crying “tuk-tuk for you, sir?”, children hawking homemade bracelets and postcards (not homemade), and resteraunteers attempting bribing you with “cold beer”.

As it was already late, my visit to the temples would have to wait until the following day. That night I grabbed some local food (surprisingly mild), a few beers, and sojourned to bed. The next morning we rented bikes and made our way to the temples.

Pictures cannot do it justice. Coming from the backside I saw the “smaller” temples first. It only takes about an hour to walk through them. The temples are in various states of disrepair, but impress all the more for it. Trees, massive hundred foot tall trees sprout from the walls and bricks of the temples. Buddha statues are still worshiped in many of the temples, and come with the accompanying accouterment: candles, incense, and silk wrappings.

The earliest temples were built in honor of Vishnu and Shiva; Shiva Lingas are still visible in many places today. In the 12th century King Jayavarman VII converted his entire kingdom to Buddhism and built the Bayon, one of the largest temples. The earliest temples date back to the 9th century. Angkor Wat itself was built in the 12th century.

Visiting the temples comes with a special bonus, tropical jungle heat. In the interest of saving money, we rented bikes to visit the temples. Don’t worry; they’re only a 15km ride away… and an additional 2-3km between each temple. It makes for a long, hot day – completely worth the suffering.

In one day I visited many of the lesser temples, in two I visited most of them in adequately. I hope in three I will be able to pay proper homage to each and every temple. (or some of them at any rate). I’ve yet to spend my third day among them.

My initial impression of Cambodia is excellent. The people are charming, humorous, and genuine. The children, I admit, are obnoxious; they doggedly attempt to sell you something you don’t want despite repeated negative responses.

If you’re ever going to get caught in a monsoon, I suggest you do it on your way back from the temples at Angkor, riding a bike after a long hot day in the sun. And when I say a monsoon, I mean a monsoon. Pouring, torrential rains accompanied by the full force and power of thunder and lightning. In seconds I was wet, in minutes I was underwater. An hour later I returned to my hostel, dripping and grinning.

I hope to have another update soon; my adventures in Siem Riep are not yet at a close. Up next, cooking classes and more. And yes, the new pictures are of the temples and surrounds.

Monday, July 25, 2011

Singapore, Singapore

I’ve arrived!

After two very long flights from LAX I landed at Changi Airport a little before noon on the 21st. A few minutes later I was through customs and on my way to the hotel where my Uncle Ken is staying for business. He has graciously offered to put me up before I begin travelling around SE Asia.

I dropped my stuff off at the hotel and took a quick walk around the city looking for something to eat. I had hoped to find one of the infamous hawker centers without difficulty, but this was not to be. Instead, I ate at a little Indian restaurant. Good, but ultimately unremarkable. The near equator sun beat down on me, and my exhausted body suggested I return to the hotel to recover and adjust to the jetlag.

A few hours later I woke to my Uncle suggesting drinks down in the lobby before dinner. I met a plethora of my uncle’s coworkers and students before heading out to dinner in Clarke Quay. Clarke Quay is on the river. I would describe it as a dinner/drinking and clubbing area. An outdoors center that’s covered in see through plastic mushrooms. See the pictures to get a better idea. After eating dinner at a Thai restaurant, we returned to the hotel where I passed out almost instantly.

The next morning I acquainted myself with the city a little better. I walked from my hotel nearly to the ocean before it started raining. I’m impressed with just how much natural space Singapore has maintained. It’s a city, don’t get me wrong, but grass and trees proliferate everywhere I’ve been. Some areas have even been left completely natural.

That afternoon I took a cab to the MOE (Ministry of Education – my official bosses) to drop off some paperwork. After running that errand I came back to the hotel and relaxed before dinner.

My uncle is a foodie. A huge foodie, and he took one of his coworkers and me to Iggy’s for dinner. Eight courses, wine, delicious. Everything was incredible. We started with fish and potato amuse-bouche, pate, salad, fish, steak, and two slightly different desserts. Absolutely excellent.

The next morning was Saturday, thus my uncle didn’t have to work. The same co-worker that came with us to dinner took us out to breakfast, traditional Singaporean breakfast. Pig leg, soup, various veggies, rice, and noodles, yum! Afterwards she took us to the local wet market (not as wet as you’d expect) to shop for a BBQ she was having later that weekend.

We loaded up on meat, veggies, fruit, and prawns before going back to her flat. We met her children, mother, and maid before heading to Orchard Rd, one of the shopping capitals of the world (certainly Singapore). We wandered through a seemingly endless maze of shops after eating… dim sum with soup? I don’t remember exactly what it’s called, unfortunately, but imagine a dumpling, like dim sum, that has a soup inside. When you bite into the dumpling the soup comes rushing out. Fantastic! Ice cream, and back to the hotel to relax.

Before dinner, I met with one of my professor’s friend who lives in Singapore. He’s storing a bag for me. I dropped the bag off and he showed me around China Town and Club Street. Undoubtedly I’ll be back.

That night my uncle took me to an all you can eat Japanese restaurant. You pay a fixed price, and order to your heart’s content. More delicious food, I’m going to get fat at this rate.

That night I met a friend from college who grew up and now lives in Singapore. She took me to a small rooftop party with several other expats. We drank beer and chilled overlooking the city. Very enjoyable.

Sunday I continued my walking tour of Singapore. I walked along the river down to Raffles Square, and then back up past Boat Quay. It, of course, is incredibly hot in Singapore. An hour, maybe two in the sun is about all I can stand. But, it’s also beautiful and charming.

Sunday night was the BBQ. Most of my uncle’s coworkers and their families were in attendance. I let some of the kids play with my camera, and I’ve got some interesting pictures. Most people were curious as to what I’m doing in Singapore, so I explained a half dozen times my job placement and everything else.

I’ve also discovered that Singaporean kids aren’t really that different from US kids. Lo and behold the 17-18 year olds had separated from the adults and where playing a drinking game. How novel! I joined them. They played a slightly modified version of Mafia, with drinking. Not long after, the BBQ broke up and everyone headed home.

This morning I’ve continued walking along the city. Wrote this, and am taking care of a variety of different things before I leave for Cambodia tomorrow. I’ll try to keep this updated as best I can. At least one post per country. And keep checking back for more pictures and the like.

Friday, July 22, 2011

Orange County, CA

I have always enjoyed spending time with my aunt immensely; this trip is no exception. Dubbed “la la land” by my dad, Orange County is a beautiful area of southern California. Perfect in many regards, everything is pristine, manicured, 75 and sunny. Many would call it paradise, and to many it is.

My first day, having slept little the night before, was spent visiting the camera store. I have a new camera and new lens, thank you so much Aunt Jeanie and Uncle Kenny, as a belated graduation gift. For all my loyal readers, my pictures should be that much better.

That night we ate at an Italian restaurant, Giuseppe’s, which has the most delectable chicken and artichoke lasagna. I’m attempting to replicate the recipe. Assuming I do, I’ll post it up here along with pictures.

The following day was spent sleeping in and visiting one of SoCal’s beautiful beaches. I lay out, read, and slept. That night we journeyed to Laguna Beach for The Pageant of the Masters, art theatre.

Anyone familiar with Arrested development may remember and episode where Buster is required to pose, without moving, for a live reproduction of a piece of art. Not only is that event real, but it happens every summer in Laguna Beach. “Only Make Believe” surprisingly enough, focused on the make believe. We passed from fairies to dragons and ancient myths to futuristic science fiction.

Should you have the opportunity of going, I beg you get good seats. The performance art cannot be appreciated, even with binoculars, from a distance. And perhaps save the trip for another year. I enjoyed it immensely, but the artistic direction suffered from, well, a lack of direction. Not to mention, many of the pieces eluded any previous recognition. It is hard to appreciate the reproduction without former knowledge of the work itself.

The following day my aunt took me to an acupuncturist to help the mild cold I’m currently suffering from. Anyone who balks at the idea of having many dozens of small needles flicked into their body, reconsider. I have, over the course of many years, had tremendous success with acupuncture. It won’t cure a broken bone, but whatever subtle system it does affect, for me, makes a noticeable difference.

And now, I sit in the airport lounge bound for Singapore. Much and more to come in the near future.

San Francisco, CA

I love this city. I couldn’t coherently explain to you why, but I do. It’s some combination of the cold air, the brazen hipsters, the last of the hippies. It’s a comfortable place for me.

This trip, alas, was very brief, barely two days. And yet those two days could not have been more fulfilling for me. I leave the city for what it is. It was friends I came to see. And none more distant from each other, perhaps, than these two.

The one is an unabashed, unashamed, determined author; I believe she shall succeed. For a long time I have been her editor, maybe some sort of inspiration, I don’t know. Yet, I seem to come with a breakthrough gleaned from my critique. I don’t know what I inspire, but it seems to work.

In terms of writing itself, I have learned a great deal over the past year and change. My dialogue is better than anything else, kill your darlings, and ultimately, write, write, write, and keep writing until bloody nubs can barely lift a pen. Then throw out the vast majority of it, and start over again. Everyone has their own style, their own gift. I won’t claim to know what it is, or how to pull it out.

It is a rare person who forces us to think about our own deeply held prejudices, thoughts, beliefs, and who evokes our own change within them. My second friend is one such person. Over the course of a long, wonderful evening, we discussed topics ranging from religion to sex, food to drugs and everything and anything in between.

“I want to wake up every morning excited,” she told me. And I realized, cliché that may sound, truer words were never spoken. I believe in joy as an ineffable right or perhaps, expectation of life. I want to surround myself in and of it, and with people who have that quality as well. Her statement drives at the core of this belief. And I owe her deeply for explaining this to me. Thank you.

Over the course of the weekend, I discovered new beer, wandered Haight St. searching ineffectively for a wallet, found a lighter instead, and learned a great deal about my world and myself.

Thursday, July 14, 2011

Torch Lake, MI

I’ve been coming to Michigan since I was a little kid. My father has been coming to Michigan since he was a little kid. And my grandmother has been coming to Michigan since she was a little kid. Obviously this place has a special meaning for us. We come here to recharge, to relax, to escape, to find ourselves, to enjoy ourselves. In our own special way, each of us communes with this area.

Torch Lake is notoriously cold; it often freezes in the winter. And time and time again I have refused to come out of the water until my chattering teeth and frozen blue lips force me to. Undoubtedly it’s all new age nonsense, but simply being in the water recharges me and mine spiritually, emotionally, and physically.

This summer I’ve had roughly three and a half weeks to spend at the lake. Mostly, I sleep, eat, and read. It’s as close to perfect as I would dare venture. The rest of my time I spend cooking, water skiing, tubing, and sailing; hell, I even went golfing. We also visit the grocery store at least once a day, often two or three times.

The sunset, overlooking the water, is one of the most beautiful I’ve seen. Note, I include the sunsets overlooking the vast sprawling ocean I witnessed while living on the ship during my time abroad. The water fades from a very light, pale blue into a turquoise, into a deep robust blue as the lake gets deeper. The sunset plays with these blues in ways I cannot adequately describe. Who knew of the thousand shades of purple, pink, green and the way they shimmer on the water translucent even transparent.

On Friday, I leave for my newest great adventure. In the morning I shall jump into the still freezing water, waking instantly invigorated. I’ll suck in deep, spasmodic breaths and have a final communion with the lake. It is a spiritual experience, and I, my family, relish it.

Wednesday, July 13, 2011

Pigeon Forge, TN

I had never stayed in a bed and breakfast until staying at Berry Springs Lodge in Gatlinburg, TN. The closest tourist destination of which is Pigeon Forge and what I will mostly be writing about. Our room overlooked the beautiful Smoky Mountains; stunning hills covered equally in pasture and wooded fir forest. The thirty-three acre property quietly hid in a beautiful section of American Appalachia.

Cutting directly through this scenic rural landscape is Pigeon Forge, TN. Quite possibly the trashiest place I’ve ever seen. I’d describe it as a mix of Las Vegas and Disney Land designed specifically to attract rednecks. The main drag, strip, whatever you want to call it is dotted with tattoo parlors, mini-NASCAR tracks, and what I can only deem attractions.

The Upside Down White House

The ¾ Size Titanic (Walk the Grand Staircase!)

Pyramids, and many other natural and artificial attractions of the world, generally at ¾ to ½ the size, and quite often with some added benefit (it’s upside down, dinner theatre, you get the idea…). Not to mention, Dolly Parton’s own theme park, Dollywood.

The first night we took easy, catching up on sleep and relaxing after our eight hour drive. The next morning we explored the natural beauty surrounding us, attempting (unsuccessfully) to go mountain biking, successfully fishing (in a stocked pond), playing ping pong, grilling out and other such leisure activities.

That night we hit the town, hard. And quickly discovered that Pigeon Forge has only one bar. That’s right, one bar. We wrongly assumed the place would be full of trashy bars where we could hit on 19 year old mothers of 2, 45 year old chain smokers, and if we were lucky, someone with a full set of teeth.

Instead, we hit on the Liteguards, Coors and Miller light promoters down from Knoxville. They ended up giving us free t-shirts, and nine or ten beers between three of us. It worked out, though we were left to ourselves when their shift ended and they hightailed it back to Knoxville.

Friday, July 8, 2011

Nashville, TN

Following on the heels of Bonnaroo, some buddies and I went to Nashville, TN for a few days. The first night, I must admit, we spent in a nice hotel – sleeping. It was exactly what we needed after our four days camping, partying, listening to music, and generally causing a ruckus.

The following day we woke late and had a leisurely brunch at a nearby restaurant recommended to us by the concierge. Ellendales served a buffet style southern brunch, both reasonable and delicious. Lamb, beef, white fish and a smattering of sides including the very southern fried pickle delighted our senses. We enjoyed our meal sitting on the porch and overlooking a lovely garden. Our bill came at under $20.00 a head, including alcohol; needless to say we were pleased.

Having recharged at a nice hotel, our next stop was Music City Hostel fairly close to down town Nashville. And a great little hostel it is. The staff was very friendly and helpful finding us beds despite being overbooked (the slew of Bonnaroo kids had booked it well in advance). The beds were comfortable and the rooms cool.

That night we ventured out to downtown Nashville. And a wild night it was. The very first bar we walked into happened to not only offer live music, but also be shooting a music video. Yours truly could very well be in the video for “One More Drinking Song” by Jarred Neiman. And you all know how much I love country. The night was filled with live music, and plenty of beer and whiskey.

The following morning we ventured back down town to the Country Music Hall of Fame. Inside you could see such rarities as a Elvis’s solid gold Cadillac, many dozen multi platinum records, famous musician’s instruments, and, perhaps my favorite, their outfits. Some of country music’s style is… unique in a surprisingly flamboyant manner. Who says you can’t be a true blue American while wearing a suite made entirely of purple and gold sequins…

Lunch was served at Jack’s BBQ, apparently famous in Nashville. And with good cause, everything was delicious in the smothered in BBQ sauce and grease way. Just as good BBQ should be. After lunch it was back to the hostel for a quick recharge before going to the Grand Ole Opry for a country music show.

Now normally, I would never go to a country music show. I was in Nashville, and a friend really wanted to go. So we went. It was a total of eight acts, each fifteen minutes long. As I quickly found out, the entire show is broadcast over the air, both online and through good ol’ fashioned radio. I won’t claim to remember all the acts, let alone one of them. One of my favorites, for their music, reminded me immensely of Nickel Creek. They were delightful. My other two favorites came from ancient country music stars. Both, I think, were over 90 years old. They were hilarious, though I admit I didn’t care much for their music. A guess you reach a certain age, and you’ll say damned near anything, to anyone, about anyone, on air. On the whole, it was a great night.

All in all, Nashville’s a great town, great fun, great people. Next off to Pigeon Forge, TN.

Pictures

Hey Kids,

I think I've got the photo thing figured out. On the top of the screen you'll see a handful of pictures from my flickr account. Those will be the nine most recent photos I've uploaded (I think). Click the link at the bottom to see my pictures. I'll try to keep them updated roughly simultaneously, so if the most recent blog post is, say Cambodia, those pictures up top will hopefully be from Cambodia. While it's constantly a work in progress, this should be a permanent fix.

Manchester, TN: Bonnaroo

Drive eleven hours, wait in line for four hours, set your campsite up at dawn, and crack a beer. You’re camping for the next four days in blistering heat. Don’t expect to sleep, take a shower, or eat anything healthy. You’re at Bonnaroo; it’s going to be a ride.


We arrived in Manchester, TN in essentially the exact fashion described above. We managed to set our campsite up just as dawn was breaking. At probably 6:30 or 7:00 we laid our weary heads down to sleep. At 8:30 or 9:00 we woke to blistering heat that made sleeping all but impossible for the entire trip.


Our first day was spent wandering around the campsite, finding the water station, discovering Centeroo, and generally preparing for the next four days. It became quickly apparent that the mid-day heat (roughly 9:00-4:00) made it impossible to do anything save hide in the shade. We quickly discovered how lucky we were. Our campsite was closer to Centeroo than anyone could have hoped for. It was also close to water, fresh, clean, gloriously cold, water. Water, how I love thee.


As soon as the sun began setting, the temperature dropped dramatically and it actually became quite comfortable out. And that is when everyone started coming out of their campsite and entering the actual festival grounds. What seemed like an inordinately large number of people to begin with quickly double, triple, quadruple, quintupled… you get the idea. I cannot explain how massive this festival is. It’s hard to quantify just how many people 100,000 people are until you actually see it. I digress.


Back to our campsite, eleven of us setup four tents between three cars. Your camping space is almost directly proportional to the number of cars you bring. They pack you in. Two rows of cars (barely enough room to walk between them), two rows of tents, etc. All filling a 700 acre farm. It’s one giant hippie paradise, open air drug market, frat party (well kinda), flea market, and show wrapped into one. I imagine many people come purely for the experience of camping, caring not for the music.


I do, however, care about the music. Few shows were of interest to me the first night, I either didn’t know the performer (usually the case), or didn’t like the music. So I followed my friends around. The two outstanding performances of the night, neither of whom I knew or was expecting, were J Cole and Childish Gambino. They both blew me away, and I don’t particularly like rap. Granted, I had never been to a live rap performance. As it was the first night, the acts closed fairly early; I managed to get my only decent (probably four hours) sleep of the weekend.


Repeat the blistering heat of the morning, hiding in the shade, and making desperate rushes to the free, cold water, and cheap bags of ice. Once the sun goes down, be prepared. The second day was filled with music. Our first band was the Decemberists. As always, they were incredible. I’ve seen them now three times, and each time I am wholly impressed. Following them was Florence and the Machine, Arcade Fire, and several other shows. They all tend to blend together. I would have liked to see the Arcade Fire up closer, and for their entire set, but it was not in the cards. I will have another opportunity I hope.


Onto Bassnectar


You do not go to see Bassnectar, you experience him. That is the only way to explain it. His show engages all your senses in ways that you cannot imagine. The crowd knows this. The crowd is excited. We arrived roughly an hour early. His stage was already packed with people waiting, energetic and excited. The energy in that tent, prior to the show, was an experience in and of itself. A technician would set a computer up and people would cheer; everyone jostled to be closer to the stage; kids in gimp suits crowd surfed for position. And then he came on.


Dance, sweaty and hot and sticky and foul, dance out every ounce of water in your system, dance until your whole body hurts, breaks past the point of exhaustion, dance because you can do nothing else. You don’t have a choice. The lights, the sounds, the energy, the crowd, everything and everyone around you is compelled to follow the music. And when it’s over, beaten and bruised, more dehydrated than you’ve ever been in your life, all you want is for the music to start up again – to keep going.


Instead you go for water, finally listen to your body. Your hands, literally, are pruned from sweat, yours and a hundred of your best friends you just met. After sitting for a few minutes and listening to our desperate bodies, get water we did. And then a short trip to another stage to see Ratatat. They also wowed me. Ratatat is electronic music with an electric guitar and an extremely trippy light show. They’re one of my new favorite bands. And I loved their show, completely forgetting they were delayed by half an hour due to technical difficulties. That’s how good they were.


After that, a failed attempt at sleeping.


Night three began later. At this point, the lack of sleep, the excessive drug and alcohol use, the poor food, and the heat are starting to catch up, starting. The big show of the night: Eminem. And he killed it. I have never really listened to him, but then you forget just how many songs he has. Imagine 100,000 people all singing along to the same person, doing exactly as one man bids. Sing this, chant that, and 100,000 people obey. It’s an electrifying experience. And afterwards, more dancing – STS9, and Girl Talk. Unfortunately, Gogol Bordello was over by the time we got there.


And the last day I was done. We left for Centeroo much earlier, planning on leaving at about 6:00 in the evening. We all had long drives. By about two in the afternoon it was too hot for me to stay out, though there were a few bands I wanted to see, most notably Explosions in the Sky. Instead, I took a shower, ate some decent food, and generally allowed my bone weary body to recover.


And after all that, what do I think? I would do it again in a heartbeat. What an incredible experience, the grime, the music, the fun and joy, the people, the heat, the dust, everyone and everything. I loved every minute of it.

Tuesday, July 5, 2011

I'm Back

Hey Kids,

After a long hiatus I’m back. As (most) of you know, I’m off to Singapore in a little over two weeks. I’ll be working for the Ministry of Education, Singapore’s public school system teaching English Lit (and some language, too). This will still be a travel blog, but I’ll also be posting my observations about teaching, Singapore, and anything else I find interesting or entertaining.

I’ll have some updates for you about the past few weeks as well.

-Stay tuned.